Reflets By Pierre Gagnaire, Dubai
The best restaurants around the Gulf Air network reviewed
BACKGROUND In an era where media-obsessed chefs spend more time staring down the lens of a television camera than staring down an errant sous chef, Pierre Gagnaire is an enigma. Known for matching unusual ingredients and for extraordinary presentation, his unique cuisine has seen his eponymous Pierre Gagnaire restaurant in Paris awarded three Michelin stars.
WHO GOES THERE? While French expats and foodies in the know already had Reflets on speed-dial before it opened this spring, the restaurant has become the place to impress a potential business or life partner as well.
AMBIENCE From the private elevator and plush flock wallpaper to the pink Murano crystal chandeliers and well-spaced tables, the atmosphere is one of exclusivity and extravagance. Purple, magenta, pink and burgundy abound, giving the room a feminine feel; however, semi-private booths offer more masculine surrounds.
THE FOOD The restaurant offers a tasting menu of around six courses and a traditional à la carte menu. Both menus are constantly evolving as dishes are perfected, so there are no signature items as such, but lobster is a constant highlight. Gagnaire has a fondness for exploring the different tastes of his key ingredients, so a dish of foie gras, for instance, will include a ballotine slice, poached foie gras and a more daring interpretation, such as foie gras ice cream. Highlights of the menu we sampled were the fish dishes; the sole meunière was perfection, while the fillet of John Dory served with a superb velouté blanc with cockles was the best plate of the evening. Gagnaire is also known for his desserts, which are technical triumphs of intriguing flavours.
SERVICE Faultless, with plenty of exceptionally well-trained staff to cater to your every whim, and a manager and sommelier who clearly have a genuine passion for the Gagnaire experience.
PRICE The six-course “Printemps” menu, including dessert, is AED690 (US$188) per person, while on the à la carte menu, mains range from AED310 to AED420. Prices are inclusive of tax and service.
VERDICT The arrival of Gagnaire on Dubai’s dining scene is as significant as Gordon Ramsay’s was back in 2002. However, don’t come expecting comfort food or coddling – Gagnaire is a daring chef who’ll take your taste buds on a fascinating ride.
REFLETS BY PIERRE GAGNAIRE InterContinental Dubai Festival City, Dubai, + 971 (0)4 701 1199, www.intercontinental.com/dubai |
