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For the best designer fashion and clothes bargains in Dubai, forget the malls, says Anna Whitehouse – head instead for the emirate’s independent boutiques
Dubai loves to shop, which is why so many malls have opened in recent years, every new arrival making its predecessors look miniscule by comparison. It’s a multi-million-dollar game of one-upmanship that’s made Dubai a must-visit shopping destination – yet for all the miles of parking spaces, food courts and multiplex cinemas the emirate’s malls collectively boast, finding clothes and accessories unique to the city requires further exploration. If you dig a little deeper and dare to brave the heat, you’ll have a less predictable and far more rewarding shopping experience.
While the malls are full of Western chains plying clothes identical to those found in their European branches, the city’s independent stores stock cutting-edge fashion from the Indian sub-continent, Asia and other Middle Eastern countries. At Soirée (Al-Wasl Road, +971 (0)4 349 4995), owner Mariya Kassam prides herself on launching up-and-coming Pakistani designers in Dubai; the racks are packed with clothes by such names as Umar Sayeed, Natasha Jethwani and Nida Azwer. There’s a rail of affordable frocks with “where did you get that from?” appeal, as well as a range of beautiful and distinctive jewel-lery from Mariya.
Karama is one of the city’s most multicultural districts, where Egyptian cafés rub shoulders with Filipino CD stores and Pakistani tailors. The area’s hottest fashion spot is iSell (Sultan Business Centre, +971 (0)4 334 2494), a brightly hued nook in which Twiggy-esque wedges, Dirty Dancing-inspired leg warmers, battered Levi jeans and one-offs such as Mary Quant tights compete for your dirhams.
A hop, skip and taxi ride down the road is Satwa, a bustling part of old Dubai where the city’s Indian and Pakistani communities are served by a fruitful slew of stores. In the cooler evenings, when the streets are lit by blazing neon from shop signs, head to Women’s World on Al-Diyafha Road (+971 (0)4 398 4349). Despite its unfashionable location and name, this small shop attracts cutting-edge local designers such as BuffiJashanmal, the woman behind the Quiet Riot label and the star of Dubai Fashion Week. “I can’t get enough of the AED10 butterflies they sell here,” she says. “I throw them on everything from tops to my shoes.” It’s the perfect spot for people who want to embellish and customise their existing wardrobe, with divine silk (AED200 per yard), emblazoned ribbons (AED2 per yard) and those weird and wonderful insect brooches, making it a veritable treasure chest for adventurous shoppers.
There aren’t many big-name stores in Satwa, but who needs Topshop or H&M when Cocos (Satwa Street, +971 (0)4 267 8725) is around? There’s nothing particularly original about their “I love Dubai shopping” range of T-shirts, but you won’t find them in the malls. Their wonderful polka-dot frocks are worth checking out too.
Even if you are in the market for major labels, the best bargains aren’t in the malls. A stand-alone shop in Oud Metha, Century 2000 (Zabeel Road, +971 (0)4 336 6654) has wallet-friendly deals on Roberto Cavalli kaftans, Dolce & Gabbana T-shirts and even Gucci motorcycle helmets. Barkha Mulani of fashion label Drama Queen is a frequent visitor. “Make sure you don’t miss the upstairs section of the shop,” she says. “That’s where all the best bargains are.” Barkha also recommends Le Stock on Jumeirah Beach Road (+971 (0)4 342 0211). Here you can find cut-price designer wares including items by the likes of Matthew Williamson, Joseph, and Victor and Wolf. “It stocks all of Tiger Lily’s [an expensive boutique at WafiCity] cast-offs,” laughs Barkha.
In a city that is always knocking down the old to make way for the new, Reem’s Closet (Mazaya Centre, +971 (0)4 343 9553), a wonderful secondhand clothes shop on Sheikh Zayed Road, seems like an anomaly. But this isn’t a hippie’s haven of tatty T-shirts and ripped jeans; instead, expect AED3,000 Vera Wang wedding dresses, Hermès Birkin handbags and Zara shoes. “It’s like a big girl’s dressing-up box,” says Reem Mohammad, the shop’s enthusiastic owner. “There are so many wealthy women in Dubai who literally chuck designer gear at us,” she adds, revealing that a pair of nearly new Chanel aviators costs only AED900, a quarter of their original price.
Something lacking from most mall stores is character, but this is a criticism you could never level at the extraordinary O’de Rose (+971 (0)4 348 7990). In a gorgeous sun-drenched villa on Al-Wasl Road, it sells quirky trinkets, suzani-embroidered sofas, large-scale ottomans from Bokja in Lebanon, tinned brass mezze trays and plexi-glass floating stools. “We offer a cup of tea to all shoppers in our beautifully landscaped garden,” says Mimi Shakhashir, its co-owner. “I know Mall of the Emirates doesn’t do that!”
BETWEEN BOUTIQUES
Anna Whitehouse suggests some stop-offs for sustenance while out shopping:
AL-MULLAH
When it comes to getting an honest bite to eat, I love this place for falafel wraps and shawarmas costing a measly Dhs7 and the tastiest watermelon juice in the emirate. It’s on Al-Diyafah Road.
SUGAR DADDY’S BAKERY
For anyone with a sweet tooth – like me – there’s nowhere quite like Sugar Daddy’s. True to its name, this pastel-hued bakery sells some of the most inventive and delicious cupcakes in Dubai – the Oreo cakes are amazing. Find it at the Village Mall.
VU’S
A day spent in indulging yourself is incomplete without an apple martini at this aptly-named bar at the Emirates Towers. Offering stupendous views across the city skyline it’s my favourite spot for kicking back and luxuriating in unashamed five-star ambience.
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