PHOTOGRAPHY FREDERIC BELGE
Bangkok is littered with tourist-trap restaurants serving poor food at inflated prices. But, with insider information, you can tuck into your dinner without feeling you’re being taken for a ride. Guide by Philippa Norman
DECADENT BREAKFAST
The Verandah
The perfect way to start a day in Bangkok is to breakfast at the riverside restaurant at the celebrated Mandarin Oriental hotel. The open-air buffet offers a spread of mouthwatering tropical fruit, cheeses, meats, fish, fluffy omelettes, naughty-but-nice pastries and an endless supply of coffee. Then you can jump on the hotel’s private boat for a trip down the Chao Phraya river. Mandarin Oriental, 48 Oriental Avenue (+66 2 659 9000). Open 6am-10.30am daily
BARKING UP THE RIGHT TREE
Another Hound
Bangkok’s Greyhound restaurants are stylish, satisfying and affordable. Try Another Hound, in the spectacular Siam Paragon complex. It’s tastefully decked out in dark teaks and flamboyant prints with a modern menu that incorporates Thai, Japanese and European cuisine. The Elvis Burger with potato wedges really rocks. Siam Paragon Shopping Centre (+66 2 260 7178, www.greyhound.co.th/cafe). Open 10am-10pm daily
SECRET GARDEN
Suk 11 Gallery & Restaurant.
Suk 11 is the perfect place to escape the mayhem of Sukhumvit Road. Lush plants draw your attention away from the noisy traffic and street hawkers as you tuck into fine Thai and Vietnamese cuisine, seated on comfy cushions at a low table. The menu includes local favourites, such as red and green curry, and fantastic fish dishes and soups – the tom yum gung (spicy soup with prawns, lemongrass, lime and chilli) is particularly good. Relatively cheap and incredibly cheerful. Suukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel (+66 2 651 2672, www.11-gallery.com). Open 10am-1am daily
BACKPACKER PARADISE
Banglampu
Banglampu, particularly the Khao San Road, is a backpacker magnet, but this stretch of bars and restaurants can get horribly overcrowded, so try the less stressful Soi Rambuttri. Here you can sample Thai street food without having to dodge confused hippies and drunken stag parties. Rambuttri is a lively street packed with stalls selling fried rice, noodles, spring rolls, satay, som tam, kebabs and even deep-fried insects (the crickets aren’t too bad). Take a taxi to Khao San Road and ask for directions.
WAT A PLACE!
The Deck by the River
Situated opposite the spectacular Wat Arun (Temple of the Dawn), the Deck is best experienced after dark. Stylish, indoor and outdoor eating areas are designed to make full use of the view across the river to the temple. The Asian/European menu is seasonal, but, if available, the carpaccio of tea-smoked duck breast is a real treat. Arun Residence Hotel, 36-38 Soi Pratoo Nok Yoong (+66 2221 9158, www.arunresidence.com). Open 11am-10pm Mon-Thur and 11am-11pm at weekends
TASTEFUL AND TASTY
Lan Na Thai @ Face
Face is a gorgeous complex of dining, drinking and spa facilities housed in a network of traditional teak houses. Its Lan Na Thai restaurant boasts opulent décor and an outstanding menu. The massaman beef curry (rich and sweet, with potato and peanuts) is sensational. It’s a high-end venue, so expect to pay over the odds, but also expect to be thoroughly satisfied. 29 Sukhumvit Rd Soi 38, Prakanong Klongtoey (+66 2 713 6048, www.facebars.com). Open 11.30am-2.30pm, 6.30pm-11pm daily
NORTHERN EXPOSURE
Som Tam Bangkok
Ari is an area popular with trendy locals and expats. Som Tam Bangkok is one of its best places, a little wooden house with a pretty garden. The menu is made up of dishes from Isaarn, an area of north-east Thailand famous for its food, particularly papaya salad (som tam), and folk music. The menu is generally delicious (be sure to try the beef curry with roti) and affordable, and the atmosphere is enchanting. 99/1 Soi Ari 3, Phahonyothin, Khwang Samsaen Nai, Khet Phaya Thai (+66 2 261 98 659). Open 11am-10.30pm daily
HEAVENLY LOCATION
Vertigo Grill & Moon Bar
Vertigo, 61 floors up, oozes decadence. The city’s highflyers flock to this open-air venue for the atmosphere, cocktails and the view. You will have to splash out; dishes such as roasted wild Tasmanian salmon with truffle-infused cauliflower puree, plus a glass of fine Australian wine, will cost about US$65, but it’s a tasty investment. Banyan Tree Hotel, 21/100 South Sathon Road (+66 2 679 1200, www.banyantree.com). Open 6.30pm-11pm nightly
WEEKEND TREATS
Chatuchak Market
Chatuchak weekend market is the place for serious snacking. The central stretch of this shopping labyrinth is lined with stalls tempting shoppers with wafts of mango, lemongrass and garlic. The quality is a bit hit-and-miss, but pick the right stall and, for less than the price of a postcard, you’ll get a hunk of fried chicken or a huge helping of Phad Thai (stir-fried noodles with chicken, eggs, beansprouts and peanuts). BTS Mo Chit. Open 7.30am-9.30pm Sat – get there early!
ALL THAT JAZZ
Brown Sugar
Brown Sugar is one of the best venues to sample Bangkok’s up-and-coming jazz scene. This lively little club plays host to big-name acts from around the world. The menu includes plenty of tasty Thai dishes and tables are tucked away in intimate nooks and crannies – or you can eat alfresco. If you love good food and funky music, you’ll have an unforgettable evening. 231/20 Sarasin Road, opposite Lumphini Park (+66 2 250 1826). Open 11am-1am Mon-Sat and 5pm-1am Sun
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