A world away from the big brands and mod cons of the large shopping malls, the Manama Souq majors in atmosphere and character. Gulf Lifespeaks to the traders who make the souk tick
The Manama Souq has been at the heart of Bahraini life for decades.
It’s one of the largest markets in the Gulf and its narrow lanes, tiny stalls and sociable coffee shops make it a must-visit for tourists. Unlike most souqs in the region, it’s hardly been touched over the years, meaning visitors can see how people in Manama shopped half a century ago. One difference between now and then is that, today, the vast majority of stallholders come from Iran or the Indian sub-continent rather than Bahrain. While there’s nothing to stop you haggling to your heart’s content, it’s likely you will be quoted a fair price in the first instance.
ADBUL SALAM of Original Music “I’m originally from Kerala in India, although I have been in Bahrain for 28 years. I’ve worked in this shop for the past 22 years. We sell Arabic, Hindi and Western music, and I listen to everything, even the Rolling Stones. My favourite album is Close To My Heart by the Indian ghazal singer Jagjit Singh. It’s very romantic. But we mostly sell Arabic albums. Cassettes by the Saudi singer Rashed Al-Majed fly off the shelves.”
ABDUL MOHAMMED AMIN BASIT of Mohd. Amin & Sons Sweet Shop “I have been working here for 20 years, but the shop has been around since 1955. We’ve been selling sweets for more than half a century. I’m from Bandar Abbas in Iran and all of my family still live there. I get to see my three children regularly and they love being able to have lots of free sweets.”
ABDUL KADOR of Jahina Restaurant “This coffee shop opened more than 50 years ago and I have been working here for 30 of them. Since I arrived here from Iran, hardly anything has changed. The furniture is the same, the equipment is the same – even the customers are the same! They like to come here during the day and smoke gouza, a traditional Bahraini shisha.”
TAJ UDDIN of Al-Mithaq Roastery “I’m from a town in the north of Bangladesh. There is a big Bangladeshi community in Bahrain. I opened my shop 10 years ago and really like living here, although I plan to move back to Bangladesh one day with my wife and four-month-old son. I have all sorts of food at my shop, but the spices – such as the chilli powder – always sell very quickly.”
ABDUL KADER of Jassim Mohammed Showaiter “This shop opened more than 70 years ago and there are now branches of Jassim Mohammed Showaiter all over Bahrain. We sell halwa, a traditional Bahraini sweet. It comes in two main varieties, green and red, and both are equally delicious. I’ve been working in Bahrain for 14 years, but my home is Kerala. Every two years I spend six months in India, which is great because I get to see my son. He’s two years old.”
SULAIMAN ABDULLA of Al Hanadi Readymade Dresses “Our shop name is confusing because we only sell shoes. These are made in India, Thailand and all over the world. The shoes with the Manchester United player Cristiano Ronaldo on the box are very popular with children. I’m from Kerala in India originally and I’ve lived in Bahrain for three years. I like living here, although I miss Abdullah Fahad, my three-year-old son.”
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