Tradition and heritage have been key inspirations for Cairo-based jeweller Azza Fahmy, who tells Omer Ali why she believes it is important to keep alive Egyptian skills and techniques
Egyptian jeweller Azza Fahmy has been creating her own pieces since the late-1960s, after training with jewellers in Cairo, as well as in London.
Her jewellery mixes traditional techniques with contemporary styling and her use of Arabic verses and phrases has become a brand trademark.
Fahmy has a range of lines, including contemporary silverwork with geometric motifs for her Fashion Collection and a combination of silver and gold with precious and semi-precious stones for the Culture Collection. She unveiled her latest work –a collaboration with fashion designer Julien Macdonald – at the latter’s recent London Fashion Week catwalk show. Fahmy has also just published her first book, The Enchanted Jewellery of Egypt, which celebrates a century of jewellery-making in the country.
Was it difficult to train as a jeweller in Egypt?
Not so much difficult, as challenging. I took a rather radical step and targeted the masters in the jewellery quarter in Khan El Khalili, which I believed was the best place to train. Ultimately, it is where I learnt ancient techniques that helped me to begin perfecting my own designs. Initially, it took a long time for them to take me seriously, but persistence and diligence paid off, and I got my apprenticeship.
How did you manage to set up on your own?
I was very lucky. While I was studying, a friend of mine began selling my designs, which helped to cover some of the costs for materials – before I knew it, I had a small client base. I started in the 1970s with a very small workshop and three employees. We now have more than 180 employees and stores across the Middle East and Egypt, plus retail presence in the UK.
What are your inspirations?
My initial inspiration came from my Egyptian heritage, but, since then, it has come in many different forms – architecture, horticulture, the flow of a piece of fabric, a piece of poetry – as can be seen across our collections. Calligraphy is also a great creative way of making sure we are all – including young people – aware of our culture, while reinforcing the work of great writers, philosophers and poets.
How did you approach the collaboration with Julien Macdonald?
Julien spent a few days in Cairo with us and we exchanged design ideas and learnt about each other’s brands. We explored our respective design approaches, how we worked with fabrics and the inspiration for Julien’s collection before we began the design process for the collaborative jewellery pieces.
You have a large workshop and a training centre, plus plans for a design school in Cairo. Are you trying to encourage a broader interest in Egyptian jewellery?
Absolutely. For the past decade, the Egyptian jewellery market has witnessed an influx of international brands and we seem to depend more on these types of jewellery. It’s important not to lose sight of our jewellery heritage and the individuality of our skills and techniques, and to maintain a healthy competition in the sector. www.azzafahmy.com
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