Meyhanes in Istanbul
In Turkey’s most cosmopolitan city, the meyhane is the source of the freshest food and liveliest atmosphere, says Vanessa Able
Although the meyhane is a very particular Turkish tradition, its origins date back to the days of the country’s Greek and Balkan immersion. Simply put, a meyhane, like a Greek ouzeri or a Bulgarian mehana, is a place where meze and fish are served with wine, beer or the local raki, often to the accompaniment of live music.
Meyhanes are immensely popular in Istanbul and there are many areas in the centre of the city – such as Asmalimescit and Nevizade Sokak – where they sit shoulder to shoulder, their white-cotton table-tops spilling out into the narrow streets, infusing the air between buildings with the jubilant revelry of diners.
A night at a meyhane should never be viewed simply as dinner: it’s a very sociable ritual that stretches across the entire evening. It is best to go when you have plenty of time – and good weather usually means outdoor dining, which makes summer the optimum season.
Meyhane protocol means the meal often begins with a glass of the traditional Turkish aniseed drink raki, which will be brought to your table with water (dilution is essential) and ice. This is swiftly followed by the arrival of the meze tray, on which are all of the starters the meyhane has to offer. These usually include spinach or aubergine dishes, fava bean paste, whitebait, roasted peppers or, for the more daring, a serving of sheep brain.
Next come the freshly made börek (deep fried savoury pastries) or grilled calamari, before the main course, which will be a choice of the day’s catch – sea bass, bluefish, bream or bonito – with salad, followed by a fruit dessert.
There are no menus at the meyhane – the waiter will offer you the dishes of the day – and a four-course meal with drinks will usually be a set price.
Çinar
If you’d like to combine dinner at a meyhane with a fantastic waterside setting, head up the Bosphorus to the “village” of Ortaköy. Here, Çinar is the most popular of a bunch of meyhane situated on the main square, right beside the water, with a close up view of the transcontinental suspension bridge and the stunning baroque mosque. Go on a Sunday and you can also peruse the handicrafts, jewellery and bag stalls that line the cobbled streets. Iskele Meydanı 42, Ortaköy, +90 212 261 5818
Imroz
Nevizade Sokak is Istanbul’s meyhane nucleus: a narrow, busy street in the city centre, its many eateries are crammed every night of the week, even in winter. All the meyhanes on the street are of a very similar standard, so if you are in a hurry, take the first available table. Otherwise, head for this friendly little joint that’s been going for more than 60 years.
If the ground level is full, head upstairs to their terrace and a great view of the bustle below.
Nevizade Sokak 24, Beyo lu, +90 212 249 9073
Giritli
This little meyhane, hidden away in the cobbled backstreets of the historic Sultanahmet district, next to the Armada hotel, is a largely undiscovered gem and, in warmer weather, sets up wooden tables within the stone walls of its private garden. The influences here are Armenian and Greek, and, as is the tradition with meyhanes, the food is centred around the freshest catch of the day, with a wide selection of meze to whet your appetite.
Keresteci Hakki Sokak, Cankurtaran, Ahirkapi, +90 212 458 2270
Refik
Situated in the bohemian neighbourhood of Asmalimescit, Refik is one of Istanbul’s oldest (it’s been here since 1954) and best-known meyhanes, which is popular with leftie types and intellectuals. Sit cosily inside in the winter, or out in the buzzing side street in the summer, and choose from their extensive meze selection, followed by fish and meat fresh from the grill, in a line-up of dishes with a heavy Black Sea influence.
Sofyali Sokak 10, Asmalimescit, +90 212 243 2834
Zarifi
A meyhane for the 2000s, this popular joint in the Taksim area fuses the best of the traditional old taverna with latter-day partying.
Book a table here for a weekend evening, enjoy meze and starters from their eclectic menu of Jewish, Greek, Armenian and Arab-inspired local dishes, then kick back with the after-dinner crowd for a night of music and dancing that will take you well into the small hours. It’s worth noting, Zarifiis primarily a winter location. 13 Çukurlu Çe me Sokak, Beyo lu, +90 212 293 5480 |
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