The quintessentially English ritual is the perfect antidote to hectic city life finds Kathryn Miller
“There are few hours in life more agreeable than the hour dedicated to the ceremony known as afternoon tea,” wrote Henry James in 1881, in The Portrait Of A Lady. More than a century later, the sentiment still holds. Visit a smart London hotel at the right time of day and, chances are, you will discover a tea room alive with chatter, the chink of quality china and soothing piano music.
The history of English afternoon tea dates to the first half of the 19th century. In 1840, the seventh Duchess of Bedford asked her butler for bread and butter on a tray with a pot of tea to fill the gap between lunch and dinner. She began inviting friends along to enjoy the experience and thus introduced the concept of afternoon tea.
Since then, the ritual has evolved to become a much more elaborate affair. Think elegant cake stands laden with delicacies: dainty sandwiches (crusts removed, of course) filled with cucumber, smoked salmon, ham and cheese, or egg and cress; scones served with strawberry jam and clotted cream – all washed down with pots of hot tea. Hotels commonly offer a selection of teas, though you could opt for a herbal infusion, coffee or hot chocolate. A more indulgent addition is a glass of Champagne.
While many of us would opt for the convenience of tea bags when at home, no respectable London establishment serving traditional afternoon tea would contemplate using anything other than leaves, which are known to impart a far superior taste. Dressing up is all part of the routine, though, these days, most places – except the Ritz, which has a strict dress code – simply ask diners to be smartly attired; jeans and trainers are, of course, frowned upon.
For younger Londoners, with whom afternoon tea is back in vogue, this provides the perfect excuse to spruce up. Passing a leisurely afternoon enjoying a pot of tea in good company is as popular today as when it was purely an aristocratic pursuit – the perfect antidote to 21st century fast-food culture, perhaps? Just don’t forget to book.
The Ritz
From the moment you enter through the revolving doors, it is evident the Ritz doesn’t do things by halves. Tea is served in the breathtaking Palm Court, a glamorous mirror-filled room with vast chandeliers, vases of flowers and a pianist. Cakes and pastries are artfully arranged on smart stands alongside perfectly proportioned sandwiches. The downside, though, is the requirement for forward planning; you’ll need to book weeks (months, if you want a table on a weekend) in advance and you’ll only have your table for one hour and 45 minutes. The Ritz has a strict dress code – gentlemen must wear a jacket and tie – but, then, you wouldn’t expect anything less. 150 Piccadilly, Mayfair, +44 (0)20 7493 8181, www.theritzhotel.co.uk
Brown’s Hotel
Wood-panelled Brown’s has an illustrious history: British crime writer Agatha Christie was a regular and it was from here that Alexander Graham Bell made the first telephone call in 1876. The menu of 19 teas includes Brown’s traditional old blend and “Granny’s Garden”, which has aromas of rhubarb and vanilla. Finger sandwiches use different types of bread, bite-sized scones, with clotted cream and jam, are either plain or with dried fruit, but the patisserie is the star of the show – the selection features a fresh miniature fruit tart and a layered chocolate mousse cake. If you finish all your food, it will be replenished at no extra charge. Albemarle Street, Mayfair, +44 (0)20 7493 6020, www.roccoforte. hotels.com Sketch
The décor in Sketch’s parlour is quirky and eclectic: a chandelier made of Anglepoise lamps, curtains in a 1970s-style print and, on the walls, giant distressed mirrors and a glowing plastic stag’s head. Tables and chairs are stylishly mismatched – you might find yourself sitting at a cluster of mirror-topped occasional tables or an oversized writing desk. Sandwiches, scones with jam and clotted cream (unusually presented on a spoon) and exquisite French patisseries arrive on antique-style, floral-printed crockery. Ice creams and sorbets are available by the scoop, while the impressive range of teas includes an ayurvedic infusion of cardamom and liquorice root. 9 Conduit Street, Mayfair, +44 (0)870 777 4488, www.sketch.uk.com
The Berkeley
Twice a year, chefs from the Berkeley attend catwalk fashion shows to gain inspiration for the cakes that form part of “Pret-aPortea”, the hotel’s modern twist on traditional afternoon tea. So you might eat a blue sponge Anya Hindmarch handbag, a Melissa Odabash green bikini biscuit or a Marc Jacobs-inspired mint green chocolate slice – a frame on your table shows photos of the inspirational items. Among the savouries are delicious canapés of seared tuna and asparagus spears. Served in Paul Smith-designed crockery, the African Amber herbal infusion is highly recommended or, for something different, try the Pear Caramel. Wilton Place, Knightsbridge, +44 (0)20 7235 6000, www.theberkeley.co.uk
The Dorchester
The Promenade is a plush room, oozing old-fashioned grandeur: tables are covered in crisp white linen cloths, vast vases are filled with fresh flowers and a pianist plays quietly in the corner. The mouthwatering sandwiches are matched by scones served warm with clotted cream and homemade jam, as well as delectable pastries. Teas include an own-blend and Dragon Pearl Jasmine, a green tea with jasmine flowers.
The Dorchester is one of the only smart hotels to offer “High Tea”, essentially a more substantial version of afternoon tea (ideal as a pre-theatre supper), which includes hot dishes such as Scotch eggs and spinach tart, or poached salmon. 53 Park Lane, +44 (0)20 7629 8888, www.dorchesterhotel.com |
 |
