DAMASCUS
Scrub up on history
The hammams of Istanbul and Turkey are world famous, but they are easily surpassed in style, elegance and sheer value for money by the public bath-houses of Syria. If you only visit one in Damascus, it probably should be the Hammam Nureddin, in the covered street between the Umayyad Mosque and the Street Called Straight. Founded in the 12th century, it is one of the grandest and oldest functioning hammams in the country. Sadly, ladies, it’s men only.
Hammam Nureddin, Souq Al-Bzouriyya, Old City; open 9am-midnight daily
LISTEN TO THE TALES OF THE HAKAWATI
In one of the tales that make up The Thousand and One Nights, a king commissions a merchant to seek out the most marvellous story ever. The merchant sends out his slaves and word comes back of a wondrous tale told in Damascus by an old man who tells stories, every day, seated on his storyteller’s throne. In the same city today, there is still an old man who tells stories each day, seated on his version of a storyteller’s throne. His name is Abu Shady and he’s the last of the hakawati, or professional storytellers. He appears at the AnNofara café, in the shadow of the Umayyad Mosque, to recount the exploits of Sultan Beybars and Antar ibn Shadad. Sadly, Abu believes his imminent retirement will bring to a close the era of the hakawati.
SEEK OUT TOP FASHION IN THE SOUK
Kuwaiti Sheikh Majed Al-Sabah chose this 18th-century stable in the middle of the old city’s spice market for the fourth incarnation of his ultra-stylish high fashion chain Villa Moda. Following a typically stylish make-over last year, the site now houses designer labels, furniture, and Syrian antiques, jewellery and silks. www.villa-moda.com |
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